Sweden


Hurra, hurra, it finally got pleasant enough in north Georgia, so that I can sleep with ac turned off and all the windows open. A tad too pleasant perhaps, because when I sat down on my balcony with my laptop, breakfast  (healthy: steel cut oatmeal with blueberries and milk) and my morning tea, I had to go search my closet – which  is still there, but now looks like a tornado went through it – for  some  socks – since, like most Swedes, I generally walk barefoot (or in socks) around the house. Very practical – your carpet, untouched by shoes keeps cleaner, longer.

It was raining, too. Not a real rain, just a refreshing drizzle and a fog, which made the mountains on the far side of the lake invisible. Mountains or no mountains, the lake view is still breathtaking, both relaxing and invigorating, inviting, on a cool day like today, for a stroll in the nearby nature preserve or for a joy ride to the mountains… just to check they are still there, behind the fog. :-)

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I’ll miss this place, this little town (Gainesville), this apartment, this terrace and most of all this view for the lake (Lanier), the woods and the mountains. I always seem to miss most places with a view.

In Ystad, the beautifully preserved medieval town in Sweden’s southernmost province Scania (Skaane in Swedish) my apartment was shaped like a fan, with panoramic windows  from my living room, dining room and bedroom affording – even without going out on the balcony - a panoramic  view of the Baltic sea, the ferry harbor with ferries from Poland, Danmark  ( mostly the island of Bornholm) and Germany and the yacht harbor; a  loooooong, sandy beach framed in wild rose bushes with their heady aroma, interspersed  with  cute, tiny fishermen’s huts. And, to the left, in front of the yacht harbor, there was en enchanting view of a gammal prison: its buildings and its  walled courtyard. No, I am not kidding: this view was very pleasant, since the old prison was stylishly remodeled as an architects’ office and the courtyard sported a tranquil fountain, and a japanese style garden. Cool!

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In Germany, when I worked in Munich,  I happened to specify to relo ( = people arranging corporate relocations) that  I’d rather live in the country and have a view of the mountains and some water, if possible, than in the city, no matter how tempting with its cultural and architectural depth,  and they surprised me  and delighted me with a  small but cute apartment over a barn in a typical Bavarian Bauerhaus: wooden, painted, half way between Munich and Garmisch-Partenkirchen. ( The company was delighted, too: this mountain village apartment’s cost was just a  tiny fraction of  what a city apartment would be, so even with the cost of gas for my daily commute, they still saved a bundle).

The apartment had a small balcony, just enough for two chairs, but a view over the Alps with the Zermatt in the background and Alpine meadows and other Bavarian wooden houses in front of the mountains was huge. And when I leaned out from my balcony and looked to the side, I could also get a glimpse of Sternberg Lake  (Sternberger See) , the one in which the crazy Bavarian king, who built all those fabled castles there, drowned … either by himself ot with the helps of frustrated Bavarians, whom he was bringing to the brink of financial ruin. Though now their descendants derive more income from all the turist trafic than from their cows.

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In Costa Rica, my wooden cabin over Monteverde, on the outskirts of a nature preserve, had two acres of land attached to it, with a fascinating, gone wild tropical garden,  a path of  candy-cane amarillises and wandering light-blue irises suddenly and quite unexpectedly appearing behing the curve of a jungle road, framing a  path to the cabin; a mini-banana plantation to the side and a clearing at the back of a cabin, allowing a  view of the mountains, of  the rain- and cloud forests at the tops,  coffe and dairy  fincas on middle slopes, and a glimpse of the Pacific  down, down and away between the green, green slopes.

There, besides the view of mountains, the sea, the tropical flora, I could also observe some of the fascinating local fauna: butterflies, mariposas, huge and colorful  like flowers, some so irridescent and  blue like the ocean away, and  the birds: funny-looking, “singing” brown colored bell-birds with their long “mustaches” ( I guess they are the only kind of bird with that type of an unusual “adornment”), and fabulously colorful mot-mots, with their tails swinging like a pendulum of an oldfashion clock, and – on a very rare occassion – even resplendent quetzals digesting wild avocados.

The view of  the birds I could enjoy most often at predawn, when howler and capuchin monkeys were feasting on my bananas, on the metal roof of my cabin, making such a racket, that it was impossible to sleep, so I usually went up, muttering some expletives adressed to the monkeys, drank my morning coffee outside or at the window (if it rained), and enjoyed the views.

I was initially afraid that lack of sleep would affect my job performance, until I figured out that electricity and with it computers, internet etc. usually went down early afternoon for a few hours, so I could take a leisurely stroll through the jungle to my cabin, take a little midday nap, a siesta, and return to the institute to work till the evening, when we anyway often had  open lectures or musical performances for both turists and the locals. I just had to remember to keep my headlamp with me at all time for that pretty scary – amagine all the snakes living there in the brush of  impatiens – night stroll back to the cabin. But I digress…

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In Almunecar , a very, very old pueblo blanco on Andalusia’s coast in Spain, straight south of Granada, I lived on the uppermost – 10th – floor of a condo building on the seapromenade.

There the view was of the famed blue Mediterranean (sadly polluted, but the view does not reveal this shameful secret),  a mostly stony beach with its fish restaurants and their open pits from which a tempting aroma of  freshly caught, grilled sardines waffled all the way up, up, to my 10th floor balcony.

On the beach there were  turists bathing and playing in season, and outside the turist season retired expats from all over Europe, but mostly from Scandinavia (Sweden, Denmatk, Norway) and from Germany and Great Britan – the cold weather and high cost of living countries - walking, exercising.. .by the colorful  fishing boats and  fishermen loading or unloading their  nets and fish.

Beetween the beach and the condo there was  a paseo along the beach, framed with tall, stately palm trees and  full of  all kind of open air eateries, where people sipped their hot chocolate and ate churros (Spanish doughnouts) or olive drizzled toasts with garlic and tomatoes for breakfast, or munching on an abundance of tapas all day – and night – long.

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On the left side of the bay, in the background, there were slopes of  Sierra de Grazalema  and – behind them Sierra Nevada mountains, with some of their peaks covered in snow, while oranges and bugainvilla were in full bloom at the coast. On the lower slopes, the view revealed two pueblos blancos, typical Andalusian white villages, oh, so pittoresque with their narrow streets and their white houses climbing the slopes. Between the villages and the sea there was also a carretera climbing up, up, like a serpent full of moving objects, with tunnels and dangerous curves. It was both exhilataring – and quite often scary – to watch the bravado of  cars negotiating the carretera.

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Ah, my places with a view … I do miss them all, would love to return to them all, but not yet, not yet. Right now there are still plenty of new places and new adventures awaiting. Or so I hope. :-)

Friday night  Daughter and I went to the SACC/SWEA ( Swedish-American Chamber of Commerce, Swedish Women Educational Association) sponsored typical Swedish  crawfish party held at the IKEA store in midtown Atlanta.

We were squeezed too tight  (table rows were too close together, round tables in rows only added to sitting an moving discomfort) but the party was a typical kraeftskiva (crawfish party in Swedish) : noisy, rowdy, fun! An opportunity to meet local Swedes, speak Swedish, and sing Swedish “snaps-visor” (=alcohol praising songs) while eating tons of crawfish cooked in a dill-spiced water.

 Eating whole crawfish  without proper  crawfish utensils is pretty difficult, but Daughter had a stroke of genius  and  initiated use of a  heavy water glass to smash crawfish claws with in order to get to the meat inside them. Found followers soon, since it beats risking your teeth:  less troublesome and a lot less expensive, should a crawfish prove too tough for either teeth or glass.

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It was already a second crawfish party this year for me. Last weekend we had a “family” crawfish party on the huge balcony of my mountain place. “Family” and not family, since the “crowd” was a tad dysfunctional (?) or at least unusual: Daughter, me and my Ex-son-in-law. Yet we had a good time. It is always nice when a divorced couple can be friends and socialize with each other. We ate crawfish (purchased from IKEA), with good Swedish cheese and even better – not Swedish – red wine (but we also had Swedish Elderberry Aquavit for the sake of tradition. I usually avoid such strong alcohol in an undiluted form, but Elderberry Aquavit tastes surprisingly mild, so I had a whole shot), watched a beautiful sunset over the lake, and later the fireworks from a couple of marinas around it – since it happened to be  the Labor Day weekend. Very festive. The Jake-o- Lantern, in Sweden called  a full moon lantern and used  to lit crawfish parties is still hanging over my terrace table. I wonder what my American neighbors are thinking seeing it hanging there at the beginning of September, since for them it is a Halloween decoration. They might think, that I, an immigrant, somehow got the American traditions wrong. ;-)

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Yesterday, after getting up late ( at Daughter’s place in Atlanta) after the crawfish party, we scrambled to make our reserved time for breakfast at the Original Pankace House.

Daughter wanted me to try the southern specialty of  bacon pancakes. We’ve both been living – off and on – in the US for the last 25 years and always avoided the combination of bacon or sausage with pancakes, eating – if we indulged in a typical American breakfast -   separately eggs and bacon and then pancakes. But a few months ago Daugher went for a retreat and there the only available breakfast food was bacon pancakes, so she decided to brave it… and fell for them. I do have to admit: surprisingly good, too good in fact, so I am lucky I am moving away in a months time to a place where, hopefully, no one will serve them, so I might avoid gaining a ton of weight. ;-)   To tell the full truth, we weren’t brave enough to smear our pancakes with eggs before pouring maple syrup over them, so – smart as we are – we ordered those pancakes without eggs ;-)

I am moving in a month, sort of overseas, and, anyway, to an island, which poses a special sort of challenges, you might think, so what am I doing starting a blog and blogging about crawfish and bacon pancakes?  Ah, well, today I was supposed to sort my study – things to take, things to throw away, things to leave with Daughter…. so I decided to distract myself from that mundane and oh so boring duty by starting a blog… until it was time to go see Benjamin Franklin exhibition at Atlanta History Museum